Passport Panic + Pinot Noir | A New Zealand Adventure

New Zealand has long been at the top of my travel bucket list, so when I stumbled upon an amazing flight deal last year, I booked it on the spot and pitched it to my husband as our 20th anniversary trip. What was supposed to be an epic wine-soaked getaway, and it was, but not without a few hiccups along the way. From passport panic to tire blowouts, we had our share of travel drama. All in all, it was an unforgettable trip and now we can laugh about the mishaps.

Let’s just say we didn’t exactly ease into the trip. My husband realized—at the airport—that his passport was set to expire in less than a month, and New Zealand doesn’t play when it comes to passport rules. Instead of starting the journey with me, he instead made an emergency trip to the Denver Passport Agency, a successful rush renewal, and a last-minute flight to L.A. to catch up with me in Auckland. He only missed one day, which thankfully, was a rest day. Crisis diverted. Barely.

Orewa & Waiheke Island

We started the trip suitably in the laid-back coastal town of Orewa, enjoying the fresh sea air and shaking off the jet lag. The next day, we hopped on a ferry to Waiheke Island, a quaint little island known for its charm and world-class wine. Our first stop was to Batch Winery. Perched atop a hill with stunning panoramic views, Batch is known for its innovative winemaking and modern bistro. We loved their Bordeaux blend—rich, structured, and perfectly paired with our lunch.

Our next jaunt took us to Cable Bay Vineyards which is modern, elegant, and has plenty of photogenic spots. I was especially enamored with their 2020 Syrah (spicy, earthy, balanced) and the 2022 Reserve Pinot Gris, which had a beautiful texture and tropical lift.

Mudbrick Vineyard was our last stop of the day…this one’s a stunner. Known for its storybook views over Auckland and beyond, Mudbrick feels like a Mediterranean estate. The 2024 Pinot Gris we purchased was crisp, clean, and incredibly refreshing. I would have liked to spend more time on this island but we had to get ready for the second leg of our trip to Rotorua.

Rotorua

I was pleasantly surprised at how much I enjoyed this area. We did a tour at Te Puia, learning about the Māori cultural and experienced the geothermal center which was an exciting diversion from all the wine regions we visited. The tour included bubbling mud pools, steaming geysers and a chance to see the Kiwi birds! These nocturnal, flightless fluffballs are native to New Zealand and notoriously shy. Seeing them up close was so fun. I will admit, I kind of fell in love with them and brought home quite a few souvenirs with a Kiwi bird emphasis.

We also did a night tour of the Redwoods Treewalk. Enchanting is the best word to describe this place. Suspended bridges high above the forest floor, towering redwoods, and over 30 glowing lanterns designed by David Trubridge. If you do one nighttime activity in NZ, make it this one.

Haumoana in Hawke’s Bay

We stayed in Haumoana, a quiet beach town just south of Napier, in a charming VRBO perched right on the bay. The sound of the waves crashing while we cooked dinner was one of those simple memorable moments I won’t forget. While Napier is known for its Art Deco charm, we were here mainly for wine tasting and this area is right in the heart of many renowned Hawke’s Bay wineries. First stop, Clearview Estate Winery, just down the road from our place. This laid-back winery gave us a good start to a full day of wine tastings. We left with their Pinot Gris and Old Olive Block, a Bordeaux blend named after the estate’s iconic 100-year-old olive tree.

Next, we visited Elephant Hill Winery. Chic and coastal with some of the best winery views in Hawke’s Bay. We enjoyed a lovely charcuterie spread while sipping their Sparkling Rosé, Tempranillo, and Reserve Syrah, all of which we purchased. If you are looking for a relaxed wine tasting and aren’t in a rush, I highly recommend stopping here. Before heading back to our place, we had to visit one of the region’s most renowned wineries, Craggy Range. The setting at the foot of Te Mata Peak is breathtaking! Craggy Range is known for single-vineyard expressions, particularly their Syrah and Gimblett Gravels reds. They also offer in-depth tours and luxury lodging on-site. We kept it simple, ordered a couple glasses of wine and walked the property.

I would definitely go back to Hawke’s Bay, I felt like we ran out of time and didn’t get to explore as much as I would have liked. Nonetheless, on we go to Marlborough. On our drive down to Wellington to catch the ferry to the South Island, we hit a bit of unexpected drama, literally. We were stopped at a one-lane section of the road where cars had to take turns going each direction. As we waited for our turn, I noticed a very large curb off to the side and thought, surely, he sees that (my husband was driving). As he started to drive, I assumed he was going to steer around it, so I didn’t say anything, mainly because I didn’t want to get into another argument about his driving. Well… he didn’t steer right, instead went directly into the curb, blowing out the tire and bending the rim. I screamed (again), which of course didn’t help matters. We can laugh about it now, but at the time it was a little hectic. He changed the tire like a pro, we got back on the road, and it turned out fine in the end. From there, we continued our road trip down to Wellington, where we caught the ferry across the Cook Strait to Picton.

Marlborough

After a scenic ferry ride from Wellington to Picton, we arrived in Marlborough, New Zealand’s famed Sauvignon Blanc country. Our VRBO was surrounded by vineyards near Blenheim, another favorite stay. Waking up to rows of vines and mountain views? Yes, please.

A few favorite wineries included Fromm Winery, Hans Herzog Estate and Bladen Wines.

Fromm Winery is a small, family-owned winery with a passion for minimal intervention. We loved their Chardonnay, The Curation Pinot Noir, and Malbec—elegant, earthy, and expressive.

Hans Herzog Estate is a must-visit winery in the region! Organic, eclectic grape varieties, and stunning views. Their back patio overlooks the vines and distant mountains. We couldn’t resist the Pinot Noir, the Rhône-style Mistral Red, and the bold Spirit of Marlborough blend. Seriously, put this one on your list if you visit Marlborough.

Bladen Wines was a humble estate that we stumbled upon. Charming and boutique, Bladen was a favorite. We especially loved their Sauvignon Blanc, probably my favorite from the area, and the Sum of Us white blend. If you love small producers like I do, don’t miss out on this winery.

Other notable Marlborough wineries to check out would be Cloudy Bay, Dog Point, Clos Henri, Greywacke, and Allan Scott. Some of our favorite restaurants were also here, in the town of Blenheim. Eat Thai has authentic Thai food; my green curry + a local Riesling took me straight to my happy place. Cancun Eats was also delicious; a fun casual Mexican restaurant with killer margaritas.

Queenstown

After leaving Marlborough, we made another long drive—this time to Christchurch to catch a flight to Queenstown. If we’d had more time, we would have driven from Christchurch instead, as many people told us it’s one of the most scenic drives in New Zealand. Anyhow, the short flight delivered us to one of our favorite places of the entire trip: Queenstown. Tucked between dramatic mountain ranges and perched along the shores of Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown is vibrant, outdoorsy, and buzzing with energy. Even with just a couple of days, we packed in a lot. One of the highlights was a wine tasting at Kinross, a charming cellar door about 30 minutes from town. What makes Kinross special is that it’s home to several boutique producers, allowing you to taste a variety of wines in one location.

We sampled wines from:

• Kinross – Known for producing elegant Pinot Noir and vibrant whites from their Gibbston Valley vineyard, their wines reflect the cool-climate precision Central Otago is famous for.

• Hawkshead – A small family-owned winery focused on sustainably grown Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Riesling, crafted with minimal intervention and a strong connection to place.

• Valli – A renowned name in Central Otago, Valli specializes in single-vineyard Pinot Noir from different sub-regions, showcasing the distinct terroirs across the area. Their wines are refined, complex, and incredibly age-worthy.

• The Wild Irishman – The passion project of pioneering Central Otago winemaker Alan Brady, this label emphasizes site expression and traditional winemaking techniques, producing wines with character and soul.

Beyond wine, we explored the heart of Queenstown. We indulged in the iconic Fergburger—worth every bit of the hype—and spent time wandering through the boutique shops and lively downtown. One of the must-do activities is the Skyline Gondola, which rewards you with breathtaking panoramic views from the top of Bob’s Peak. And yes, we absolutely channeled our childhood playful side by hopping on the luge rides while there, absolute blast, especially as I passed other little kids on their luge.

We were lucky to experience beautiful weather, which made it perfect for our second day’s relaxed itinerary. Before heading to the airport, we strolled through the serene Queenstown Gardens and wandered the vibrant Queenstown Wharf, full of life with bars, restaurants, street performers, and lakefront views. For dinner, we had a memorable first night at Sherwood Restaurant. The oysters are an absolute must, and every dish was fresh, seasonal, and thoughtfully prepared. The next night, we took it easy—cooked dinner in, grabbed some ice cream for dessert, and unwound with Netflix. Honestly, it was the perfect balance of adventure and downtime.

Would I visit New Zealand again? In a heartbeat—but with a few tweaks. We covered a lot of ground, in a short amount of time, which meant a ton of driving and short stays. If I were to do it again, I’d slow things down—choose one wine region per island, savor a few more long lunches, and spend less time in the car. But even with the unexpected moments, this trip was so memorable. The scenery, the friendly people, the wine, the little fights and big laughs—it all made for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that I’d definitely do again. And again.